Start with the full report, not the offer letter
The settlement letter shows one number. The CCC One Market Valuation Report shows how that number was built: your vehicle as the insurer recorded it, the comparable vehicles, every adjustment, and the tax and fee math at the end. You cannot check a number you cannot see, so if you only have the letter, email the adjuster and ask for the complete valuation report, including all comparables and adjustments. Asking by email gives you a dated record.
If you have never read one of these reports before, our walkthrough of how to read a CCC One valuation report explains each section.
The seven checks, in order
These are ordered by how often they matter and how much they tend to move the result. The first two take minutes and catch the largest errors.
1. Trim and factory options
Pull your window sticker or a VIN build sheet (many dealers and manufacturer sites can produce one from the VIN). Compare it line by line with the equipment list on the vehicle page of the report.
A wrong trim is the most expensive single error, because the software then searches for comparables of the cheaper trim. A missing package does similar damage: every comparable gets compared to a car without it, so no equipment adjustment is ever made in your favor.
2. The comparable vehicles
List each comparable in a simple table: year, trim, mileage, price, distance from you, the date it was captured, and the source. Then ask of each one:
- Is it the same trim with similar options?
- How far away is it? Comparables from a cheaper market far from home can pull the average down.
- Is it current? Listings captured long before your date of loss may not reflect the market you are buying in.
- Can you find it? Search the listing or the VIN if it is shown. Note any you cannot verify.
- Does it have a clean title? A rebuilt or salvage title example does not belong in the set.
One bad comparable in a set of four or five can shift the average by a meaningful amount.
3. Mileage adjustments
Each comparable is adjusted for the difference between its miles and yours. A comparable with more miles than your car should be adjusted up, and one with fewer miles should be adjusted down. Check the direction of every adjustment and whether the size looks reasonable for your vehicle. Also confirm the report has your correct odometer reading at the time of loss.
4. Condition adjustments
Many reports rate areas of the car against a "typical" vehicle and deduct for anything rated below typical. Look at what was deducted and why. If the ratings were made from photos taken after the crash, or deduct for wear you can disprove, gather your own evidence: recent photos, service records, receipts for tires and brakes. Our guide to CCC condition adjustments covers this in detail.
5. The projected sold adjustment
Many reports reduce each dealer listing price by a "projected sold" adjustment, on the theory that cars sell for less than their asking price. Add up how much it takes off across all comparables. Then ask the adjuster in writing what data supports that reduction for your vehicle and market. See the projected sold adjustment explained.
6. Tax, title and registration
The last page usually adds sales tax and fees and subtracts your deductible. In many states, insurers are expected to include some or all of the sales tax and fees you would pay to replace the vehicle. Check that tax is calculated on the full value at your local rate, that fees are included where your state expects them, and that the deductible was applied once.
7. The math
Add the adjusted comparable values, compute the average (or whatever method the report describes), then apply condition and the other vehicle-level adjustments. Arithmetic errors are uncommon, but doing the math yourself shows you exactly which inputs drive the final number, and that tells you where your evidence matters most.
How to tell a fair report from a low one
After the seven checks, you will usually land in one of three places:
- Nothing material is wrong. The trim and options match, the comparables are local and current, and the adjustments are supported. The number may still feel low, especially if prices for your model have dropped, but it is probably defensible. Pushing back without evidence rarely helps.
- One or two specific errors. A missing package, a wrong trim, or a bad comparable. These are the easiest to fix: send the documentation and ask for a revised valuation.
- Several soft spots. Distant comparables, a large projected sold reduction, and condition deductions without support. This is where building your own comparable set and a written response makes the most difference.
Being honest with yourself about which bucket you are in saves time and keeps your response credible.
What to send the adjuster
Keep it short and specific. For each issue: which line is wrong, why, the evidence, and what the corrected figure should be. Attach your window sticker or build sheet, your own comparables with screenshots and dates, and any condition records. Ask for a revised valuation report in writing by a reasonable date. Our total-loss counter-offer guide includes a letter template you can adapt.
If the insurer will not move and the gap is large, many auto policies include an appraisal clause for disputes over the amount of loss. See the appraisal clause guide.
If you would like a second set of eyes first, you can send us the report for a free CCC report check. We will tell you honestly whether the number holds up.